Mercedes S-Class W-220

since 1998 release

Repair and operation of the car

Mercedes W220
+ Mercedes-Benz cars of the class S (W220)
+ Operation manual
+ Routine maintenance
+ Engine
+ Cooling system and heating
+ Power supply system and release
+ Engine electric equipment
+ Automatic transmission
+ Power shafts
+ Brake system
+ Suspension bracket and steering
- Body
   Security measures when carrying out body works
   Cleaning and care of the car
   Repair of insignificant damages of body panels
   Repair of considerable damages of a body
   Replacement of brushes of screen wipers
   Orthopedic seats
   Heating of seats
   Replacement of the filter of purification of air of salon
   Sensors of electric systems
   Fire extinguishing system
+ Onboard electric equipment
+ Schemes of electric equipment

Repair of considerable damages of a body

Repair of serious damages of a body has to be made in the conditions of specialized auto repair shop at the disposal of which there is a necessary equipment.

Whether in case of extensive damages of a body first of all it is necessary to be convinced there were no shifts of elements of the panels capable to affect controllability of the car or to be the reason of the increased wear any of its component.

In view of the fact that the majority of elements of a body (a cowl, wings, etc.) is represented by separate components which replacement can be made in an individual order, their replacement in case of serious damage it is not represented expedient. More often much more reasonably and more economic it appears to find a suitable replaceable element which can be found not only in shops of auto parts, but also on automobile dumps that, naturally, allows to cut down expenses significantly.

In the absence of access to the back party of the panel of a body for percussion of a dent, it should be extended by means of the hammer with sliding brisk. In the deepest place of a dent, or along its border, a nasverlita or fill small openings at distance not less than 2.5 cm from each other …
… then screw in a hammer rod in an opening and put it in action. Tap with the ordinary hammer at edge of a dent to help metal to take the initial form. After the end of this procedure the surface of a dent has to approach the initial contour and approximately on 0.3 cm act over the surface of surrounding metal.
By means of a rough emery paper remove paint to naked metal. It is possible to make it manually, but adaptation shown on a photo will help you to accelerate process. By means of thinner, approximately No. 320, an emery paper nullify paint in a radius not less than 2.5 cm around the site of a dent.
After removal of paint it is better to check to the touch, than by sight whether enough the surface of metal is equal. Begin to knock the hammer of camber and/or extend hollows where it is necessary. Clear the restored surface wax or silicone stain remover.
Following instructions on packing, mix a pack of plastic hard putty with a hardener. The proportion of mixing is critical and if you break it, hard putty will stiffen too slowly or too quickly (and you will not manage to put it and to give the necessary form).
Working quickly not to allow to stiffen to hard putty, by means of the plastic applicator with pressing apply it on the surface of metal, making sure that there is a full gearing to metal. Process hard putty that it took the form close to an initial form of the site and slightly towered over a surrounding surface.
Let's hard putty stiffen to such state that it could be pressed through only a nail. By means of the file or adaptation shown on a photo roughly process hard putty.
By means of the rough emery paper fixed on a plate or whetstone process hard putty that it became smooth and equal. Gradually you pass to more and thinner grades of paper, always using a plate or whetstone, and finish processing number 360 or 400.
As a result of processing the hand should not feel transition borders from hard putty to naked metal and from naked metal to old paint. If these objectives are achieved, remove dust and cover the next panels and details of finishing.
Apply several layers of primer on the processed surface. Do not spray too much primer that it did not flow down, and after drawing each layer let's previous dry. Usually here the professional gun sprayer is used, but in shops of auto parts there is on sale a primer in inexpensive aerosol package.
Primer will help to reveal defects or scratches. Fill them with polishing paste. Following instructions on packing, process its thin (No. 360 or 400) an emery paper to smoothness. Repeat polishing, applying polishing paste and grinding it until the grounded surface does not become absolutely smooth.
Finish grinding with very thin paper (No. 400 or 600) to remove surplus of primer. Wash up the site of processing by water and let's it dry. Use a sticky napkin for full removal of dust, then put a layer of external paint. Do not try to wipe or apply a wax covering on this site until paint does not dry completely (not less than two weeks).